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Friday, December 14, 2007
SE WIND 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT... BECOMING S 20 TO 25 KT WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 35 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT...BUILDING TO 6 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Y'know what Pacific Ocean?
When you fire off a perfect head high right...
In what was previously a foamy, slopfest...
It makes me sad and a little bit angry...
Not because I can't appreciate a nice wave...
Or because I know a spot that'll be even better...
But because I am nowhere near where I need to be...
I hate it when you do that, but alo understand...
That you are the ocean and will do what you need to do...
But you're making me hate.
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4 comments:
No one is ever surfing that spot and with an empty line-up, it always seems to look like it's hundreds of yards out and DOH+. When I make my epic PNW surf trip (it's the new baja don't ya know) you will let me know where that is?
New Baja and epic trip. Now that's fucking funny. Good luck Billy boy good luck.
Rick James says............. it's day 6 bitch! Day 6!
Last week was good but should have pleanty of time to rest now and get shit done. Weeks like last I wish I lived on the coast, but weeks like this dont mind the city. Scored 2 week day seshies, one by suprise on Fri. When I saw 7at 17 and no wind was so outty, again. Sometimes I dont mind the weeks off bec it's a lot of effort when it does turn on if not I def start to hate or at least my boss does.
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