Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Pre Wetsuit


SW WIND 25 TO 30 KT...RISING TO 30 TO 35 KT. GUSTS UP TO 45 KT. COMBINED SEAS 17 TO 19 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 13 SECONDS.

I...ummm...started surfing pre-wetsuits...
It was really fucking cold...
And there were no waterproof cameras...
It was one shot and splash...
The camera was done...
Here's a shot...
This was so pre-wetsuit...
We were wearing overcoats.

3 comments:

finger said...

In the mid 70’s, my first wetsuit in the Northwest was a ¼” Harvey’s, cut for diving with a beavertail jacket and a farmer john underneath. While paddling, the diving cut fatigued your shoulders and chafed your nipples and the hair off your armpits.

On land, you tell who surfed because they couldn’t wear deodorant and were always hunched over so the shirt wouldn’t touch the nipples-painful and stinky.

Never thought to use an overcoat. Doc.
Did you seal it up with duct tape?

Anonymous said...

Uh ya, World War One. Right?

Gaz said...

Finger's sex life was never that exciting, which is why he surfed so much..... calm down old man!