Friday, January 18, 2008

Reeler


NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING NW 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Didn't get done with work 'til late...
Swung over for a last chance look...
Brought a couple beers just in case...
Watched some solid ones unload...
Suited up quick and got out there...
The paddle was bit rougher than Wednesday...
Both days were 8 foot at 14 seconds...
But tonight was bigger and heavier...
First wave was a tester wave...
Since I left the 10' 6" in the car...
And it had been quite awhile...
Since I had ridden much else...
But it was a fun overhead left...
That yielded a duck dive smorgasborg...
Second wave was a late drop...
That I pulled off to my own surprise...
Fifteen to 20 duckdives back out...
Either tired me out or the prior...
Late drop success made me lazy...
In any case, the 3rd wave was not good...
Paddling lazily for a outside peak...
Maybe a little too used to the 10' 6" glide?...
I hung at the top, and hung, and hung...
Then I hung no more, I spun, & I spun...
It wasn't too bad, but it was lame...
Battled my way back out...
And waited for a good one...
It came, a meaty left with my name on it...
Big drop, round off the bottom, off the top...
And down, down, down the line...
Lotsa bowling sections and feathering walls...
As it closed out, I pondered paddling back out...
But decided to end on a high note...
I'd say it was my best wave of the year...
But it's only January after all...
Proned in, and drank my beers...
Sometimes only one wave's all it takes.

1 comments:

Dub said...

Afternoon sesh round 3ish?

If so was that other bearded guy just to the north & think I saw your last one. Nice!

Shouda stayed out thou, just got better as the tide filled in. So fun!