Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

Getting late in the morning...
Gotta go to work...
I'll just take a quick look...
It's only an 8 foot swell...
I'll go long just in case...
Get there, super high hide...
Only one guy way out there...
Dodging bombs...
And taking them on the head...
The swell was too west...
No wrap, no reduction...
Overhead faces and constant...
I could make it outside...
Get past the shorebreak...
Sit in that hole...
And break for the horizon..
When the moment comes...
But wait a minute...
Look at that inside hole...
Wall of white water hits it...
Dissapates and reforms...
Into a chest high bowling left...
Hmmm? Current's a bitch though...
But better than the alternative...
Gave it a go...
Nothing too spectacular...
A half dozen reform warblers...
Right into the rocks...
All in all, at least I got wet...
It's been about 2 weeks.