Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Some Fun


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Pretty fun this morning...
Not the greatest waves...
Double ups and close outs...
Were frequent and plenty...
But the sun was shining hard...
Paddle outs were mostly easy...
Surfed with Dub & Pete & Sooloo...
And lent Gaz the Eagle...
Not the greatest waves but...
Enough shoulders opened up...
For quick down the line forays...
To keep me in the water awhile...
Checked back hoping for seconds...
Only to find howling wind...
Closed out knee high wavelets...
And a convenience store...
That sold beer.

5 comments:

Foulweather... said...

That Skip Frye of yours could convert me...

Trying to scratch a near 200 lb frame on a 6'4" into waves after a month long flat spell isn't always pretty....

nasty said...

a 200lb Welsh man is rarely pretty. Time to own up to the fact that if you wanna keep surfing you'll have to embrace teh LB.

tres_arboles said...

Screw it. I'm a 215 lb ex-Prop (if Pete's Welsh, he'll get that) and I surfed a 6'3" on April Fool's Day. Longboards surely have their day, but you should never have to give up the shorty.

David, Seattle

Foulweather... said...

Tres_Arboles, I used to play full back but now I'm more second row material... still with a bit of thickness and width... the 6'4" does me fine... accept when 'Nasty' fails to understand common surf etiquette.

nasty said...

Surfing is a selfish endeavor, so there is no etiquette. That wave traveled thousand of miles and it is my responsibility to celebrate it's demise on terra firma.


3tree - wot you surfing on? 3+ inches?