Thursday, May 15, 2008

Fortunate Son


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

I'm the one, I'm the one...
The one they call...

Y'know...
Some days...
It's good to be a surfer...
Some days...
It's a pain in the ass...
Other days...
Like today...
It's a blessing...

Today I felt like Roy Batty...
At the end of Blade Runner...
Where he says...
"I've seen things you people wouldn't believe"...
And the beauty of it was...
It was just another day of surfing...
But it was a memorable day...
For many reasons...
The otter...
Swimming in the lineup...
The Sea Lion...
Checking it out...
Offshore winds...
Holding up my lefts...
A rainbow...
In the middle of a rainless day...
Sunrise to sunset...
Session on the coast...

Saw some friends early...
And a few later. as well..
Drank some beers on the North coast...
And some on Central coast too...
Saw a legend...
And the not so famous...
Mingling...
On a great day to be alive.

3 comments:

rj said...

I slaved under the klieg lights. Lucky, lucky me.

monitor said...

title of post does not match lyric reference...

Gaz said...

Twas a sweet day all the way round........