Friday, May 23, 2008

Gone Left

VARIABLE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. NW SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

Today was one of those days...
One of those good days...
The forecast wasn't promising...
But the payoff was solid...
Head high with overhead peaks...
At high tide it was a bit soft...
But some good drops...
And a few that connected to the inside...
As the tide dropped...
A left started working...
That would offer a wall...
Followed by a quick bowl...
And an occassional barrel...
I shared it with one other guy...
As 10 others bunched up down the beach...
Got my first tube ride on the 10'6"...
It wasn't much of a tube...
Brief, and I had to be as small as possible...
But it was a barrel nonetheless...
And I spent the next hour...
Hunting for them...
I got 2 more...
But couldn't get back out...
It was a great session...
Glassy, calm and uncrowded...
Heading out I passed many cars...
With stacks of boards on their roofs...
Should be a kookfest weekend at the beach...
Glad I came early.

1 comments:

Lele said...

Hey Doc,
fantastic shot!!!
And fantastic blog.
I'm getting a daily dose
Keep posting
Regards from Italy
Daniele