Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Grayness


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 TO 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
It wasn't the greatest session of all time...
But I've surfed a lot worse a lot of times...
Rough start to the day though...
Got a speeding ticket headed to the coast...
I was doing 70 which, I suppose, is speeding...
Anyway, got in the water around 1pm...
Only 1 other guy out on a decent peak...
Paddled out to keep him company...
Since it was the only peak really working...
We traded off waves for a bit...
Then another peak started working...
So we spread out a bit...
The lefts were punchy and short...
A few of them hollowing out enough to tuck into...
For a brief spraying over the back...
The rights were softer...
And rolled all the way to the inside...
Lotsa little fish in the water...
And the barking of sea lions echoing off the cliffs...
Last Friday I saw a whale breaching offshore...
All in a day's work at Surf In Oregon.

7 comments:

pushingtide said...

Great arty pic.wow.

Foulweather... said...

I love it when the sky and sea blend into a uniform gray like yesterday. You can't see the waves very well but it really makes the unicorns leaping over the rainbows standout when you are in the tube.

Anonymous said...

Tubes yesterday? Dub-

Doc said...

I believe I said ...For a brief spraying over the back...and I'll stand by that. I never used the word tubes tho...

Doc

Anonymous said...

You didn't Foul did.

Thanks for being honest though and brief sprayings over the backs, great way to put it.

Doc said...

Or maybe back splashes...
Spine wetters...
California license plate dampeners...

Foulweather... said...

I also talked about Rainbows and Unicorns. Are you saying you believe I ride unicorns but not that I can pull into a 2' tube? It helps to have an active imagination when you Surf In Oregon