Thursday, June 19, 2008

Beginner Again


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING S 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
I can only wish I had a Makaha backwash...
As an excuse for my own surfing ineptitude...
Got a rare four day long streak going...
Mixing up surfs on the Frye & the new Mabile 6' 8"...
A friend asked me how the twinzer was surfing...
I answered "Somewhere between Crappily & Shitttly"...
Not the board's fault...
Strictly user limitations I fear...
Definitely found a few fun sections...
But also spent alot of time stepping off the tail...
Or popping wheelies...
Which, on a surfboard...
Generally realizes poor results...
I still know I can surf...
It's just that recent experience...
Indicates otherwise.

2 comments:

Ian... said...

Nothing's wrong with quiting Doc, but I gotta make some money this summer so I can back west in time for winter. Don't worry, I shant be sending them to Oregon for surf.

rj said...

Forget everything you learned on a longboard doc. Pop up and plant feet. Do no board walking from this point forward. Everything is dependant upon finding the sweet spot.