Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In: [surf break gamma]

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:28 PM

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

The coast cam from last night showed this lonely wave breaking outside...

It wasn't a barrel, lined up, nor did it look like it connected to the inside...

But I kept looking at it and it was somehow an essential wave for me...

Oregon can certainly stack waves up and through them at you in quantity...

But a lonely peak all by itself is often a fairly uncommon commodity.

Headed to the coast in the early am hoping for something...

I didn't have particularly high hopes but thought it'd work out...

Pulled up to [surf break alpha] to find a couple out on it...

One surfer was someone I knew and almost paddled out just to chat...

But the bumpiness, the softness and the half dozen guys suiting up...

To surf the single peaked bumpy softness dissuaded me from going...

Checked [surf break beta], it was better but not by much...

Watched and watched, a guy came in, walked up and muttered...

"Pretty mushy" with a frown and a soft shaking of the head, I fled...

Checked [surf breaks c, d, e, f & g], all looking fairly dismal...

Although [surf break g], through binoculars, and from above, looked doable...

Surfed [surf break gamma] for about 2 hours, pretty small but some fun ones...

All by my lonesome, some thigh high peelers connecting through to the shallows.