Thursday, July 10, 2008

And Now...


Back to Surfing...
Just posted this pic last month...
But it applies.

Surfed on Tuesday and Wednesday at PC...
Following on the heels of the Cole Ortega incident...
Lots of talk about what to be done...
Who's to blame...
And talk of buoys, lifeguards & regulations...
I feel bad for the boy...
But you can't regulate everyone's safety...
It's an inherently risky endeavor...
Although getting hit by a boat...
Isn't a risk you generally consider.

Tuesday's surf was pretty dismal...
Quick closed out shorebreaks...
Wednesday, paddled out with HD...
He wanted to go drink coffee...
But I used the Jedi Mind Trick...
To persuade him to surf...
And keep his surf streak alive...
Once we got out, he said...
"Bigger than it looked"...
I answered...
"And crappier than it looked too"...
We caught a few and hung it up...
He went to drink his coffee...
And I went and surfed the closed out shorebreak again.

Later that day, I paddled across the above river...
In misbegotten hope of surf...
I made it about halfway through the flats...
Before the force of the wind...
Drove me backwards...
I stashed the board...
And struggled forward to the beach...
The nuking north wind...
Needles to say, had destroyed the surf...
And the blowing sand storm...
Sent me packing quickly.

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