Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In: 5 Up

Monday, September 15, 2008

Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:03 PM

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Yeah, so...there was no wind...

And it was more like 4 foot at 7 seconds...

But there was enough...

Enough even for a noseride...

A somewhat rare occurence...

Given the preponderance of beach breaks...

But a little inside wall lined up...

And I blundered clumsily to the nose...

I shoulda risked 10...

But settled for 5...

Then celebrated with 2...

Beers...

It was all I brought.

Nash said...: Ya know, you have very feminine looking feet.; 10:17 AM
Doc said...: Those aren't mine...
But they seem kinda mannish to me...
Skinny yeah, but man legs.; 10:47 AM
Anonymous said...: Well this is Surf in Oregon right so dont all the chicks up there have hairy legs?; 2:27 PM
Doc said...: Think what you will...
But with the recent summerlike weather...
I have seen plenty of legs...
And those of the feminine variety...
Were anything but hairy...; 5:59 PM
Ryan said...: Except for the regular hippy chick who squats and pees while she's talking to you.; 10:55 AM