Monday, September 15, 2008

5 Up


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Yeah, so...there was no wind...
And it was more like 4 foot at 7 seconds...
But there was enough...
Enough even for a noseride...
A somewhat rare occurence...
Given the preponderance of beach breaks...
But a little inside wall lined up...
And I blundered clumsily to the nose...
I shoulda risked 10...
But settled for 5...
Then celebrated with 2...
Beers...
It was all I brought.


5 comments:

Nash said...

Ya know, you have very feminine looking feet.

Doc said...

Those aren't mine...
But they seem kinda mannish to me...
Skinny yeah, but man legs.

Anonymous said...

Well this is Surf in Oregon right so dont all the chicks up there have hairy legs?

Doc said...

Think what you will...
But with the recent summerlike weather...
I have seen plenty of legs...
And those of the feminine variety...
Were anything but hairy...

Ryan said...

Except for the regular hippy chick who squats and pees while she's talking to you.