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Friday, September 19, 2008
W WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Cam shots like this make me sigh...
Stuck on dry land.
On a sour, bitter, cynical note...
Surfing yesterday at a well-travelled North coast spot...
Witnessed the odd blown take off or three...
As I paddled past one perpetrator post-plop...
He quickly qualified...
"I'm trying to get used to this new board"...
I must admit he had the full surfer look...
But then, as he sat up, back arched...
He shook his head and tipped over...
I paddled away.
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