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Tuesday, September 23, 2008
NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 3 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Irritated...
That on a sunny fall day...
When I could see my feet even...
I was all jittery...
Every movement...
Caught my eye...
That and water in my ear...
That will not clear out...
Driving me crazy...
Oh, and waist high waves...
On a shortboard...
Got a few...
A couple walls that lined up...
But mostly one and done...
One drop...
One off the top...
One shake of the head...
Now it's building...
Along with the wind...
13 foot forecast...
Paired with 30 knot winds...
Maybe it'll be...
A perfect storm.
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