Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Killing Me


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Wealth may be measured in many ways...
But green gateways of forested headlands...
Leading to a crystalline home of water and waves...
Is the truest measure...
Surfing allows you to live...
To feel life...
To overflow with significant poetry...
Of nature, fable and myth.
Whatever.

3 comments:

Gaz said...

I cry when I surf alone too Doc......

doc said...

Yeah...
But you're a sensitive guy.

Lele said...

Wise thoughts, man.
Che la pace sia con te
Lele