Tuesday, October 28, 2008
~photo by Holddown
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
The surfer shares an intimate knowledge of the sea...
Touching aspects understood only by creatures of the sea...
Dolphin, whale, shark...
It is not a specific knowledge...
It is a knowledge that exists within...
The body, heart and mind...
Revealed in moments of perfect calm...
Efforts to realize, understand or analyze this knowledge...
Leads to frustration.
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1 comments:
In grad school for my physical oceanography degree, one of my professors told me one of many truths...
"No one knows more about the ocean than surfers;
you just can't extract any useful information from them..." (Paul Komar)
Sorry for the unauthorized use of '...'
KT
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