Friday, October 24, 2008

Surf Art Religion


N WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 8 FT AT 12 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
For the surfer...
The wave is a canvas...
The ride the medium...
The experience the art...
A touch of hand to water...
Draws the line...
Providing connected pleasure...
An act of creation...
That for some...
Approaches the level of religion...
Religion without war...
Without caste...
Without rules...
A religion liquid and flowing.

1 comments:

Anonymous said...

Looks cold!