Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Sweet Jesus!

E WIND 10 TO 15 KT...EASING TO W TO NW 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Looks like a frickin' Ma'alaea freight train...
Now back to our regular programming.

There is calmness to be found on the sea...
Even when winds howl...
When waves rear against hidden reefs...
When water boils in liquid explosions...
You can find moments of calm...
Where the noise and chaos fade...
Replaced by quiet...
It may be brief...
Often so fleeting...
That it goes unnoticed...
But if you look closely...
It can be found...
These calm moments...
Can be carried in your heart...
In your mind...
In your very soul...
Keeping us at peace...
Keeping us clear...
Keeping us healthy...
Amidst the turbulence of the world.

10 comments:

Wet and Cold said...

"they keep tellin me Jesus walked on water, when he should have surfed!"

-ben harper

Anonymous said...

the cams are really goin off today. i wonder what it looks like at the beach.

Ryan said...

Its' going off, lighting up, firing. One of those days you blow it all off and go. Fuck work, leave the fam at home, forget about friends or whatever and go. The pay off for all the shit we deal with. It's one of those days you feel blessed to be an Oregon surfer.

Sorry Doc not trying to rub it in.
:(

Anonymous said...

looks cold

doc said...

Knew I shoulda postponed that fucking surgery...

turtle said...

Amen!! Fall has arrived...and my work is deprived...

Calmness has overtaken me indeed, or perhaps it's exhaustion after 6hrs. in the water and soaking up sun for the last 2 days. REgardless, my heart is full, my mind is clear, my soul at peace, and my thirst is quenched....

Hang in there Doc, at least your prose is flowing smooth.

Anonymous said...

What were you thinking its October.

Anonymous said...

Looks cold!

Anonymous said...

Looks cold!

Blown Off Shore said...

Thank god it is cold. Keeps all the thin skins at home.