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How it works:
The thin, flat rockered board moves across the wave very quickly. The hard edge of the rail bites into the wave like a long fin and the gentle curves on the bottom hold the board into the face of the wave. The board is as light as possible so it accelerates quickly and the wood is sealed with oil which is slippery in the water. This makes the board move faster through the water like a fish.
The thin board flexes as you ride the wave. When in trim or when catching the wave, you push down on the nose giving the board a reverse rocker. This makes the board go faster. When turning you pull up on the nose making the board flex the other way. This makes the board turn quicker and then bounce out of the turn as it comes back to its natural shape. The right combination of flex, thickness, hard edge on the rail and the oiled surface makes for a very light, lively surfboard.How to surf:
The Lala. The ancient Hawaiians had a special word for how to surf the alaia. It was “lala.”. It is the controlled slide in the pocket. The way you do it is you use the edge of the board to hold in across a wall, then break free for a controlled sideways slide in the pocket, then grab the wave again to gain forward momentum. When you want to continue with forward momentum, you put weight on the inside rail and the board grips the wave and takes off again.
10 comments:
that "behemoth" is still available, you know. I tried to give it to Ms. Tippy and a couple other people... unsuccesfully. Today Mrs. Stiffler threw it down in a fury because it was blocking access to the hose faucet outside, it was a horrible scene.
PS, I bought a brand spankin' new wetsuit, booties, hood, and a used 10' Cort Gion single fin, and a groovy 9.5" fin to change it up...
so how do you get to "Shorties" anyway?
never mind all that banality, you should come get this big plank, think of it as a blank for an ailalalaaia or whatever they're called... it's making a dead spot on the lawn.
Weird...
Anonyei
I'll take it...you've done all the work...maybe thin it out some more.
Sorry I haven't posted pic of the other non-surf plank...had some tech issues that seem to be resolved finally.
Dude...you should pass it along to someone who has the imagination and the skills to get her wet...
Not some has-been wanna-be surfer who works for a corporate beer establishment selling individuality and good times to the public at large, a transplant who falsely claims to be a Doc(tor).
Hmmmph.
I have a 12 inch hand held Makita planer that smells Hemlock Blood...
(That and I can trade you a real blank, one you can actually create a surfboard out of.)
(hey Doc, can you get 4 longboard blanks from Craigs to Portland for me?)
Wrdver says 'killwhitey', WTF?
And before any one starts with the hate, I am joshing the Doc, mk?
Lord knows how the hacks and hangers on deal with sarcasm these days.
Eeesh.
wrdver says 'jethro' wtf?
Either way...
If you really need the blank delivery I have a van...
I never claimed to be a doctor, I just play one on the blogweb...
word ver is "felch me"...wtf
Hey Doc, shoot me an email at...
retroshaper@gmail.com
There's cash and prizes in it for you I'm sure...
wrdver..
'takofndie' .....wtf?
I kin getya a plank, RS, it might be a little while, though...
Go for it if it really inspires you. Some really cool people in surfing, including a few I actually like, are really into this thing. The whole finless thing's not for me and I am secure with my manhood nevertheless.
Where did you find that picture? Sweet.
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