Thursday, February 12, 2009

Dusk Patrol


SE WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 9 TO 11 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Saw an all too brief window...
So skedaddled before it closed...
But too much work to do...
And had to drive away from surf...
Work, work, work...
Finally wrapped up at 4pm...
Pulled the trigger on a quick DP...
Not a dawnie, but a duskie...
In the water by 4:30...
Pretty solid, well overhead...
Wave one was a punisher...
Bottom dropped out...
Free fall to the bottom...
Thrashed and spun...
But the next 4 lefts...
Made up for the punishment.

1 comments:

retro shaper said...

There was some deep shit commitment around these southerly parts, huge bombs every where but no way to get to most of it.
I saw 3' surf 2 miles up the Bay!