Thursday, March 26, 2009

Balance

SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

It was blowing east when I checked this morning...
The swell looked like a window of fun potential...
I had hoped for a long hike into a spot I haven't surfed in a bit...
But indicators and other commitments killed that dream...
Still, shot the shit and critiqued those out scratching...
And rhapsodized about a swell with a little less north...
And finally headed in that direction...
Stopping along the way to ascertain that yes...
It was not worth paddling out into...
Finally found an empty wedging right...
That lasted a couple hours...
And gave me a run for my money...
Air drops, pig dogs and over the falls...
All an a mere head high wave...
Well, maybe a little over head...
Then the dropping tide ruined the fun...
And I drifted over to the circus zone...
Spring break. I'm on vacation myself...
So who am I to complain?
Big enough to keep the plastic surf schoolers inside...
But sandbars that allow for a double reform...
Kept an even balance...
Between fun and frustration.

1 comments:

retro shaper said...

Tits and fins my Man, tits and fins.
Nice little peak in the pic though...
Buts tits are peaks too...



hochacke , which I think is some kind of Ho money.