I never had a lesson...
I truly don't recall a time I was trying to surf...
I don't have memories of wanting to be a surfer...
I grew up a stone's throw from the beach...
I was immersed in the culture from age 5...
I would probably be a better surfer "skillwise"...
If I ever would focus on improving...
But instead, it was only about being...
Being on the beach, being in the water...
I never needed to learn...
Now I'm trying to teach...
How crazy is that?
And how pointless I often wonder...
Would my "student" be better off left alone?
As I was...
To find their own way...
To surf and become a surfer...
Or not?
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