Friday, September 25, 2009

Flow


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 18 SECONDS.
Yesterday was a good day...
Blown to shit on the north coast...
Aside from one spot...
Beginner's central...
But it was empty early...
Maybe a dozen out...
And well spaced...
Heavy spindrift...
Blown out of at least one left...
Headed back for a sunset session...
Bigger, better, crowdeder...
But still plenty of room...
Solid head high peaks...
Lotsa sealife and activity...
Gulls, Loons, Pelicans...
Smelt, and fish that chase them...
Sealions, and boils I hope were sealions...
Luckily, few lulls in which to sit...
And dwell upon what lurked below...
It was surf, surf, surf...
And stoke, stoke, stoke.

1 comments:

Anonymous said...

cool blog, not too much fluff. i think you might like the mission statement Gerry wrote for this website - surf realization fellowship. i'm into it, just spreading the word. aloha.