SEPTEMBER 1!
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Welcome to the 2026/2027 good wave season! You made it through another
summer. One of the stronger south swell seasons i can remember and it's
not ne...
2 weeks ago
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 18 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
A surfer paddled out every day...
And the first wave he saw...
He surfed in his mind...
And that wave was always a part of him...
For that day, for that week...
That month, that year and for many years…
Unremembered and unsurfed.
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3 comments:
Doc's Zen koans?
veri=musyrica
uh oh, it's that time of year when doc hasn't surfed in awhile and starts talking all loopy...
more loopy talkin' Doc!
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