Monday, March 28, 2011

Surfing

SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT...EASING. WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

I always edit Surf in Oregon reports...
But, ultimately...
It all comes back to the same point for me...
Where I started and where I got...
I'm not the best surfer...
Nor the worst...
I like short boards...
And the long ones...
(Mebbe a bit more the long ones)...
But the heart of the matter...
For me at least...
Is keeping the act of surfing...
Effortless and enjoyable...
Which, sadly, for me...
Has been hard to achieve of late...
Between an injury and physical distance...
I want to keep the stoke...
But also battle being the downer of late...
So all of you out there...
Geting a few here and there...
Help me out...
And tell your tales here...
Unless...
Of course...
It's as I've always said...
There's no...
Surf in Oregon.

9 comments:

seek/find said...

ahhhh bummer.

yea, this injured shit sucks. hope you can at least find some rest.

heal uP!

Nasty said...

I feel your pain. When the swell is right, MY time is wrong. When I have time the surf is cold, fickle, and sharky.

faro said...

Its all good man, you'll get back into it!

Foulweather said...

what's yr injury Doc? getting crazy with the MMA?

turtle said...

I too hear you loud and clear. 8wks off a fractured ankle. Patience with injuries is tough. I shaped 2 boards and I managed some prone sessions hobbling down to the water line, taping up and leaving the soft cast on the beach. Maybe not the smartest idea but the doc said "ice" and it did wonders to clear my head and just glide. Really, I just needed to be in the ocean (or at least outside) feeling part of the world. Heal up, stay stoked.

R said...

Always saw you as the king of valley stoke. But I understand……. PDX the hipster shithole it is will suck the stoke right out of ya. That said, last week was pretty damn good. I was lucky enough to have taken the week off. Not a lot of options locally with a real swell in the water other than the obvious, but Wed was worth fighting for.

“Some people feel like they need to live in cities and be surrounded by people to get inspired. Not me.” Thomas Campbell on living in rural costal Central Ca.

grace said...

You'll be back....
Better than ever....
Surf has been South wind honkin,big and soft...
Trashed my new TVS on the shore break rocks should work really well now.....

Patrick~;-)

Anonymous said...

Hey doc, posting from the west coast of Scotland...
there's no surf here either...
nor on the east coast...
nor on the north...
particularly not the north...
specifically not at Thurso East...
it never works....
Sort of.

Jeff said...

Que unda.

Long time lurker. First time commenter.

Good luck with the wave farming this summer season.

Got any good stories about za from Fultano's?