Monday, December 18, 2023
“The Clouds were Low…
And Hairy in the Sky”
Other than that…
Waves were had.
Friday, December 01, 2023
Not since I've surfed...
Just since I've posted...
Just since I've posted...
Not sure this will take...
But we'll jump in and see.
Saturday, November 23, 2019
N wind 10 to 15 kt.
Becoming NE 5 to 10 kt
with gusts to 15 kt.
W swell 11 ft at 16 seconds.
Wind waves NE 2 ft at 4
seconds.
Couple weeks back, during
a stretch of unreal mild weather, the forecast called for 1-2 foot surf, light
winds and temps in the high 50's on Oregon's North coast. I talked my wife into
her first ever ocean outrigger paddle.
Arrived in Manzanita at
about 1pm to give it time to warm up a bit and still beat any potential
late afternoon winds. Rigged the Huki OC2, suited up and carried the boat
down to the water.
We've been paddling for a few years now, but only flatwater water for her to date. Put her in the front seat (as she prefers the view, as opposed to staring at my back!) and started out through the small waves.
It was an uneventful launch (thankfully) and we quickly made it outside and headed north along the hulking Neahkahnie Cliffs towards Oswald West's Short Sands Beach.
"Paddle
Harder!" I told her. Punching through the next wave elicited a small
yelp of excitement and I said "Paddle Harder!" as I saw the next wave
in the train bearing down on us. The final
wave was at best a waist high one but it was enough to launch us and the boat
into the air and partially unseat her but my now familiar bark "Paddle!" she
refocused her effort, was quickly back in rhythm and we were clear of the surf.
The run back to Manzanita
was uneventful...paddling around sea stacks, through surging keyholes and what appeared to be a shark ripping apart
another sea critter (as we paddled quietly past) were the only things to
note.
Arriving back at Manzanita
Beach, we surfed a wave in, carried the boat up to the car and quickly loaded
up as the sun dropped behind the offshore fog bank and the temp quickly dropped several degrees.
Friday, November 30, 2018
Break, break, break,
On thy cold gray stones, O Sea!
And I would that my tongue could utter
The thoughts that arise in me.
O well for the fisherman’s boy,
That he shouts with his sister at play!
O well for the sailor lad,
That he sings in his boat on the bay!
And the stately ships go on
To their haven under the hill;
But O for the touch of a vanish’d hand,
And the sound of a voice that is still!
Break, break, break,
At the foot of thy crags, O Sea!
But the tender grace of a day that is dead
Will never come back to me.
-Alfred Tennyson
Tuesday, June 02, 2015
SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES SW 2 FT AT 4 SECONDS.
W SWELL 3 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
A petition has been filed with the Marine Board of the State of Oregon by an individual proposing to establish a "Navigation Safety Zone" on the south side of Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City, Oregon.
The said safety zone would essentially prohibit surfing whenever boat traffic was occurring at the Cape. The proposal stems from the accident in 2008 when a young Bend surfer, Cole Ortega, had his arm severed by a dory prop coming in through heavy surf.
The State and Ortega were found to be negligent in varying degrees and the boat operator cleared of any responsibility.
Now, 7 years later, Oregon surfers are faced with restrictions and the potential loss of a popular and protected surf spot. Surfrider has a petition to prevent the passage of this new and restrictive proposals...you can sign it here. Please do!
Although, I have serious doubts even about the Marine Board's jurisdiction in this matter, here's the letter I sent to them in May:
In Summary, the Proposed Petition to Establish a Navigation Safety
Zone on the Pacific Ocean at Cape Kiwanda proposes to:
·
Establish a
navigation safety zone on the Pacific Ocean at Cape Kiwanda in Tillamook County
·
Prescribe
the marking of the safety zone with lighted markers
·
Make
operation of a surfboard within the safety zone whenever dory rigs and trailers
are parked on the beach a violation of ORS 830.365(1) (operation of a water
ski, surfboard, or similar device in a reckless or negligent manner).
The actual end result of the passage of the Petition would
be an effective “ban” on a specific user group (surfers using surfboards “or
similar device”) within 1100 feet south of the Cape Kiwanda; currently, a
popular surfing location due to several factors including, but not limited to,
wind protection, favorable currents and access. Additionally, due to the
wording in the petition of “or similar device”, such a ban could potentially be
expanded to include other user groups; kayaks, stand up paddleboards, or even
swimmers.
While to a non-surfer, a ban on surfing in an 1100 foot
section seems reasonable as there are many miles of beach beyond the proposed
“Safety Zone”, most quality surf locations in Oregon are tied to protective
headlands or jetties; such as, Seaside, Indian Beach, Oswald West, Neakahnie
Cliffs, Tillamook Jetties, Cape Lookout, Cape Kiwanda, Otter Crest, Yaquina
Head, Newport Jetties and so on south. Cape Kiwanda is no exception, the best
surfing typically occurs between the Cape and south to the car ramp. While the open
beach break further south can be utilized for surfing, it does not provide the
protection (from wind and currents) or the consistency of surf (due to
refraction, bottom contour and currents) that the surfing of the lee side of a
headland, cape or jetty provides. Elimination of Cape Kiwanda as a surfing
option could mean that the next closest “protected” option would be Cape
Lookout to the north (with inherent access complications) or Otter Crest to the
south; both likely over an hour away and with far fewer options than the surf
at Cape Kiwanda.
The “ban” or “prohibition” on “operation of a surfboard” in
the area would be in effect “whenever dory rigs and trailers are parked on the
beach”. If followed literally, surfing would be permitted if only one dory rig
and trailer were present but a violation if two were present. If a surfer (or
surfers) were in the water before any dory rigs and trailers were present would
the surfer(s) be required to vacate once two dory rigs and trailers were parked
on the beach? How long before they were in violation? Often, sea conditions will
determine when a dory can safely launch and land; the same conditions often
determine when certain surfers can safely enter the water. Large surf which may
prevent dories from launching may free the area south of the Cape for surfers,
but might also encourage beginning surfers to enter the water in conditions
beyond their ability. Calm, small surf summer days are obviously days when dory
rigs and trailers fill the beach and when surfers of all levels of ability also
crowd the waters…and non-surfers crowd the shoreline. By all accounts there
have been numerous close calls with beachcombing tourists unaware of a dory
sliding onto the beach; in the event of an accident here, will beach walkers be
banned or will dories be limited in their access to launch on the beach below
the Cape?
Following the tragic injury of Cole Ortega, in which the 14
year old’s arm was severed, there were concerted efforts to communicate the
dangers surrounding the launch and landing practices of Pacific City Dories below
Cape Kiwanda. Local surfers and dory operators worked together to address
safety, educate the public and preserve beach access for all users. The State
and Ortega were both found to be negligent at varying levels. Posted warnings
of the potential dangers to raise awareness for beach and surf users seem a
better alternative than instituting a “violation” atmosphere targeting a
specific user group; i.e. A “No lifeguard present. Swim at your own risk” or some
equivalent signage, as seen on other of Oregon’s beaches but tailored,
obviously, to the more specific risks and dangers at Cape Kiwanda.
Additionally, the very notion of “enforcement” seems problematic in its own
right both logistically and financially for Tillamook County; not to mention
the cost of installation and maintenance of any “safety zone with lighted
markers” near a Cape with violent winter surf regularly in excess of 20 feet.
Ultimately, any ban or restriction will be bitterly
contested and will bring in outside interest groups. Further proposals and
recommendations on limits to specific users (Dories, Jet Skis, Dog Walkers,
Horses, Etc.) will be bandied about and contested, fought and argued. The end
result will be an increasingly thick book of rules and regulations until the
list of restrictions resembles those of California beaches. Even if the
proposal “wins”, everyone will lose in the end.
The real issue at hand is the massive popularity and
increase of use at Cape Kiwanda, especially in the summer. The natural beauty
of the area is strong draw and offers many recreation options, surfing among
them. While the proposed petition may have good intentions; every added rule
creates precedence for other rules, and every exclusion creates yet other
exclusions.
In ORS Chapter 830 (390.010 Policy of state toward outdoor
recreation resources), in section 5 states:
(5) It shall be the policy of the
State of Oregon to supply those outdoor recreation areas, facilities and
opportunities which are clearly the responsibility of the state in meeting
growing needs; and to encourage all agencies of government, voluntary and
commercial organizations, citizen recreation groups and others to work
cooperatively and in a coordinated manner to assist in meeting total recreation
needs through exercise of their appropriate responsibilities.
Thus, any proposal or restriction that adversely affects a
specific user group seems clearly at odds with Oregon State policy itself. Clearly,
surfers, who would be excluded from use of the area immediately south of Cape
Kiwanda do not support this proposal; nor does the Pacific City Dorymen's
Association as I understand. The following was released to local media 5/12/15:
The PCDA board has released the
following statement:
The Pacific City Dorymen’s
Association has never proposed nor supported restricting access to any user
group at Cape Kiwanda.
In over 100 years of dory
launchings and landings at Cape Kiwanda less than four dorymen fatalities have occurred,
making it one of the safest ports in Oregon.
In over 50 years of sharing the
area with surfers there has been only one serious accident.
Instead, we have chosen to work in
collaboration with the surfing community, the Oregon State Marine Board, Oregon
State Parks, Oregon State Police, United States Coast Guard, Nestucca Rural
Fire Protection District, and the Tillamook County Sheriff’s Department to
educate all user groups to provide for a safer Cape Kiwanda.
The Board of Directors will again review
current safety measures and may propose additional concepts.
This statement was approved by the
majority of the board and is based on motions made and approved in previous
meetings.
Ryan Cruse, Field Coordinator for Surfrider Foundation’s
Oregon Chapter:
“[Surfrider is] very much opposed
to this proposed ‘safety zone.’ We believe that the most productive way to
handle safety in this zone is for EDUCATED surfers and dorymen to work together
to manage this area.”
Under the basic precepts of 1967’s Oregon Beach Bill “the
public has free and uninterrupted use of the beaches along Oregon´s 362
mile-long coastline. The Beach Bill also directs that the ocean shore be
administered as a state recreation area. The Oregon Parks and Recreation
Department is charged with the protection and preservation of the recreation,
scenic, and natural resource values found on Oregon´s ocean shore”. [from
Oregon.gov “Oregon Parks and Recreation Department: Rules and Regulations”]. I
would argue that the waves that break upon Oregon’s beaches are a natural
resource of the highest value in a recreational sense for surfers and other
users.
I believe that if this restrictive petition passes it will only
create counter petitions in an endless and contentious fight over access to the
waters below Cape Kiwanda. Surely, there is a solution that does not infringe
upon, limit or exclude the user rights of one group to the benefit of
another…regardless of whether it is the 100 year tradition of dory launching or
the 50 year plus tradition of surfing at Cape Kiwanda. Coexistence, not
exclusion is the sensible path to take for Oregonians.
Thank you for your consideration.
Sunday, November 23, 2014
SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 14 SECONDS. RAIN.
"May God bless you, and may your bones bleach in the sands."
The Wreck of the Peter Iredale.
There is not much I can add to this, perhaps, the most iconic shipwreck of the Oregon Coast.
The ship was a 4 mast steel bark built in England in 1890.
On September 26, 1906, it sailed from Salina Cruz, Mexico, bound for Portland.
Encountering heavy fog, they made for the mouth of the Columbia the morning of October 25.
Captain H. Lawrence recalled,
“A heavy southeast wind blew and a strong current prevailed...
Before the vessel could be veered around...
She was in the breakers and all efforts to keep her off were unavailing.”
The ship ran aground Clatsop Spit, three masts snapping from the impact.
Captain Lawrence ordered to abandon ship and rockets were launched to signal for help.
The Point Adams Lifesaving Station sent a team of men to rescue the crew.
The lifesavers brought all 27 crewmen, including two stowaways, safely to shore.
William K. Inman, helped Captain Lawrence ashore.
He remembered that the red-bearded captain stood stiffly at attention, saluted his ship, and said: “May God bless you and may your bones bleach in these sands.”
The Captain then turned and addressed his men with a bottle of whisky in his hand:
“Boys, have a drink.”
The British Naval Court ruled that the captain and his officers were “in no wise to blame.”
But that the sudden wind shift and the strong current were responsible for the stranding of the ship.
The Shipwreck for me is a mirroring metaphor for the sorry state of my neck.
Formerly sturdy and shipshape, my spine it is now a deteriorating hulk.
But unlike the Peter Iredale; I do have hopes of being dragged from the beach.
And to again float among the waves of the mighty Sea.
Monday, October 14, 2013
NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Summer came to an abrupt end in Oregon this year.
Sunny days and small waves were replaced with sideways rain and massive storm surf.
Within a week I was bitter, dreading the darkness that creeped in earlier and earlier.
I watched my green tomatoes rot on the vine along with my soul.
I don't mind Winter, and I actually look forward to Fall.
But this year the transition was anything but.
The Indian Summer I'd hoped for seemed to be lost.
Then clouds parted, rain stopped blowing sideways.
The ocean laid down enough to accommodate a sunny day of leashless surf ala Summertime.
I sat outside on a 10 foot plus slab single fin contemplating my good fortune.
I felt some of the daily nagging aches and pains and worries wash away.
The sore neck, wonky shoulder, ruined knee.
All the shit that time and use brings us in varying degrees.
They were all there, of course, lurking.
But bursting through sunlit peaks and tasting the Sea on my lips.
Was far, far in the forefront of what was happening.
And I had a thought.
On the day after my 52nd birthday.
Here I am, a little bit older, hopefully a little bit wiser.
But in the Ocean...
There Are No Old Waves.
Wednesday, September 25, 2013
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Definition of quintessence (n)
- embodiment: the purest or most perfect example of something
- extract: the purest extract or essence of a substance, containing the substance's properties in their most concentrated form
- fifth element: in ancient and medieval philosophy, the fifth element after earth, air, fire, and water
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
W WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 11 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
Headed out on a 4 day trip last week. Nowhere exotic...100 miles west...the Oregon Coast. Thursday yielded the only really surfable waves of the trip with waist to chest high peaks at a drive up location. Fellow surf trippers trickled in through the day. The forecast was not promising, wave or weather-wise and did not disappoint with rain, sloppy waves and later some 50 mph winds.
The top pic was a waist high peeler that looked doable but was reeling in the face of a strong ebb in a large river mouth which...if you missed the wave...meant your first stop was chaotic large surf on a nearby spit then Japan.
The second shot pretty much surmised the items purchased for sustenance.
Third shot was the camp setup at an undisclosed guerilla-style location.
Fourth shot was a talisman for surf...it did not work.
Fifth shot was the result of beers drunk prompting a trunk session in said river on the flood.
Sixth & final pic shows what happens when you don't take down the surf contest tent before the 50 mph winds get it.
Friday, September 06, 2013
W WIND 10 TO 15 KTS. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS
Some Buzzy Trent Tales via Malcolm Gault-Williams' Legendary Surfers
On September 19, 1947 Bob Simmons and Buzzy Trent rode "up the coast in [Simmons'] old Model A flatbed...Trent needs to relieve himself in a major way, but Simmons as usual is in a hurry. The ever-innovative Buzzy climbs out on the wooden flatbed, squats over a convenient hole in the platform and begins to answer nature's call. Other motorists are taken aback at this graphic spectacle. Bob is outraged... 'Trent, you stupid bastard, quit shitting through that hole.' Trent's well-measured reply was one that could only come from a person in that state of satisfied quietude and relief, 'OK Simmons, what do you want me to do, shit in your front seat?' End of discussion."
- Craig Stecyk
"The surf was 'bitchin' and I watched Buzzy ride a fast Malibu wave right into the rusted wire fence that separated the Adamson Estate from the public beach. Buzzy walked up the dirt path... He spotted my new board, showed interest. I asked Buzzy if he'd like to surf the balsa. He nodded in the affirmative, yanked the balsa from the back of the Zephyr and ran for the water. Buzzy didn't waste words. Buzzy was fantastic. The board that I had lovingly shaped seemed to come alive under his agile maneuvering. After a twenty minute display of his muscular, wave riding talent, Buzzy paddled in and returned the board. This time he spoke. 'Worst board I ever surfed. Thanks, kid.'"
- Ricky Grigg
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