UPDATED FORECAST 9-13
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First northwest swell of the early season is peaking today along the CA
Coast - biggest north of SF at round 7-8ft @14-15 seconds. Swell direction
is 3...
1 week ago
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 10 KT...BACKING TO SW AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 8 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
When the boar comes, the stream does not swell by degrees, as at other times, but rolls in with a head...foaming and roaring as though it were enraged by the opposition which it encounter~Thomas Harrel 1824
[It] was on but the sets were spaced out...opted for the thumping close out barrels further south.~foulpete
...first wave was a left. Quick bottom turn...started to pitch. ...actually got time to view the green curtain for a second or two before being hammered into the sandbar.
...prime view of Smith taking off on a super solid left. He stood tall on the drop and the thing began to throw...there were a good few seconds when the lip was pitching right over his head. He then released and shot out to the shoulder and went up to smack a backhand off the lip and came down with the close out.
...caught a fun right that actually allowed for a full cutback instead of closing out and drilling me.
...outside lefts...screaming through...holding shape...to the beach. Fun peaky drops followed by a petering mid section finishing up with a steep pitching inside run...~bison
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