UPDATED FORECAST JUN 10
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Strong pulse of NZ Southwest Swell peaks today - right now long period
buoy readings showing 2.8 to 3ft @17-19 seconds from 200-210. Solid summer
swell...
!50!
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I first thought I was too old for the four-wheeled-plank of joy at age 15,
and then at every life milestone since. As I patiently await my membership
fo...
US Road Trip Shot on Ilford PanF and HP5
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After I moved from the states to South America I went back at some point to
grab some old film gear. Among some gadgets and gear I found a few roll...
fluid dynamics
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Get into my slipstream, you said
And I did --
But only after riding out some
kind of heavy turbulence,
a major disruption
in the atmosphere
like a rocke...
Bootleg – best surf film of 2013
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BOOTLEG- FULL LENGTH from George Trimm on Vimeo.
The post Bootleg – best surf film of 2013 appeared first on Ku Yah!.
California Art Show at Panorama Framing
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The theme is CALIFORNIA - Works by Creative Couples. Jay Watson and I are
excited to be in this art show in the Gallery at Panorama Framing - along ...
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Another aeon since I posted anything, the excuse the best I could possibly
have is all energies are being directed at projects outside of blogland.
Gone a...
SW WIND 25 TO 30 KT...RISING TO 30 TO 35 KT. GUSTS UP TO 45 KT. COMBINED SEAS 17 TO 19 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 13 SECONDS.
I...ummm...started surfing pre-wetsuits... It was really fucking cold... And there were no waterproof cameras... It was one shot and splash... The camera was done... Here's a shot... This was so pre-wetsuit... We were wearing overcoats.
In the mid 70’s, my first wetsuit in the Northwest was a ¼” Harvey’s, cut for diving with a beavertail jacket and a farmer john underneath. While paddling, the diving cut fatigued your shoulders and chafed your nipples and the hair off your armpits.
On land, you tell who surfed because they couldn’t wear deodorant and were always hunched over so the shirt wouldn’t touch the nipples-painful and stinky.
Never thought to use an overcoat. Doc. Did you seal it up with duct tape?
3 comments:
In the mid 70’s, my first wetsuit in the Northwest was a ¼” Harvey’s, cut for diving with a beavertail jacket and a farmer john underneath. While paddling, the diving cut fatigued your shoulders and chafed your nipples and the hair off your armpits.
On land, you tell who surfed because they couldn’t wear deodorant and were always hunched over so the shirt wouldn’t touch the nipples-painful and stinky.
Never thought to use an overcoat. Doc.
Did you seal it up with duct tape?
Uh ya, World War One. Right?
Finger's sex life was never that exciting, which is why he surfed so much..... calm down old man!
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