Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In: Specific Knowledge

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:14 PM

~photo by Holddown

S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

The surfer shares an intimate knowledge of the sea...

Touching aspects understood only by creatures of the sea...

Dolphin, whale, shark...

It is not a specific knowledge...

It is a knowledge that exists within...

The body, heart and mind...

Revealed in moments of perfect calm...

Efforts to realize, understand or analyze this knowledge...

Leads to frustration.

Anonymous said...: In grad school for my physical oceanography degree, one of my professors told me one of many truths...

"No one knows more about the ocean than surfers;
you just can't extract any useful information from them..." (Paul Komar)

Sorry for the unauthorized use of '...'

KT; 9:26 PM