Saturday, May 30, 2009

No Leashes


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 3 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
I'm sorry...
After a week of weak swell...
Waist to knee high surf mostly...
Still longboarders strapping 'em on...
a) it encourages kookiness, falling & flailing...
b) it negatively affects wave selection...
c) if it's small & you fall, you should swim...
d) all of the above & more...
Also, extreme yoga-like stretching, c'mon...
Anyway, it was perfect leashless surf...
Leave that thing on the beach...
Learn how to hang on to your board...
And don't take off on unmakeable waves...
Yelling "GOT IT!" when you don't...
And relying on your leash to save you a swim...
That's just like my opinion, man.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Place of God

SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING W 5 TO 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Surfed out on Monday...
After 4 micro sessions in 2 days...
Opted for a short walk...
Overlooking Neahkahnie Cliffs...
The painting above is by...
Cannon beach surfer & artist...
Jeffrey Hull...
(or is that artist & surfer?)...
Either way the location is a special one...
From his website:
The Tillamook Indians referred to Neahkahnie Mountain on the northern Oregon coast as "Place of God". While exploring this section of Oswald West State Park, it's easy to appreciate why they so revered this special place. I have my favorite spots to paint on "the mountain" where inspiration comes easily. This location will be familiar too most of you. Simply look toward the Pacific as you drive by on Highway 101 just south of Short Sands Beach.
If you're in Cannon Beach...
Swing by his gallery...
And buy the biggest painting you can find...
Surf themed, of course!

Friday, May 22, 2009

Very Steep


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. GUSTS TO 30 KT DURING THE EVENING. VERY STEEP WIND WAVES 6 TO 8 FT...HIGHEST IN THE EVENING. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 11 SECONDS.


NOAA is forecasting "VERY STEEP WIND WAVES"...
I don't think I've ever seen that forecast...
I hope they're right...
But I have a feeling I'll be doing more fishing...
Than surfing this holiday weekend.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

8 Million Pound Shark


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living...
By English artist Damien Hirst...
A tiger shark preserved in formaldehyde...
Poor preservation techniques required...
Gutting the shark & stretched it over a fiberglass mold...
Hirst commented that, "It didn’t look as frightening...
Continued eterioration of the original 14-foot shark...
Forced full shark replacement in 2006...
Hirst wanted a shark "big enough to eat you"...
And it cost him 6,000 pounds to obtain...
Another shark was caught off Queensland...
A female age about 25–30 years, equivalent to middle age...
Additional preservation & presentation costs...
Prompted British Tabloid The Sun story titled...
"£50,000 for fish without chips"...
The work sold in 2004 for 8 million pounds...
With technical specifications of:
"Tiger shark, glass, steel, 5% formaldehyde solution, 213 x 518 x 213 cm."

Hirst has made other formaldehyde preserved sharks...
In September 2008, "The Kingdom", another tiger shark...
Sold at auction for 9.6 million pounds...
More than £3 million above estimate...
In a speech at the British Royal Academy in 2004...
Art critic Robert Hughes said that brush marks...
In the lace collar of a painting by Velázquez...
Could be more radical than Hirst's shark...
"Murkily disintegrating in its tank on the other side of the Thames"...
Others offered that anyone could have done this artwork...
Hirst's response "But you didn't, did you?"...
In 2003, Stuckism International Gallery exhibited a shark under the title...
A Dead Shark Isn't Art...
It had been on public display two years before Hirst's version...
By Eddie Saunders at JD Electrical Supplies in Shoreditch...
Stuckists asked, "If Hirst’s shark is recognised as great art...
Then how come Eddie’s...
Which was on exhibition for two years beforehand, isn’t?
Do we perhaps have here an undiscovered artist of genius...
Who got there first, or is it that a dead shark isn’t art at all?"
The Stuckists suggested that Hirst may have...
Gotten the idea for his work from Saunders' shop display...
Hirst's work is on display at MOMA in New York until 2010.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Coming & Going



W WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Feels like I do alot of it...
Drive to waves...
Drive away from waves...
Drive to waves...
Drive away from waves...
Recent drive in session...
Was piddly, onshore & crumbly...
But still funnish and...
There's always something to be found...
Or, I hope so anyway...
The drive away from waves...
Was not a post surf departure...
Of any great regrets.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Far Side


NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...RISING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Beautiful day at the beach.
For some reason...
This shot of the "Epicenter"...
With all 3 boards sticking out of the water...
Reminds me of a Far Side comic...
You can insert your own caption.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Surf Scars

S WIND 25 TO 30 KT. GUSTS UP TO 40 KT. COMBINED SEAS 11 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 8 SECONDS.

I'm not saying it doesn't/hasn't worked...
But a good surf scar is a great icebreaker...
Shark bites are even better.

Saturday, May 09, 2009

Surf Mask


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Thursday, May 07, 2009

Looks Like Ass


W WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Still...
May head down tomorrow...
To confirm the visual evidence...
North winds please...
Or South...
(I know East winds is too much to ask)...
Just not West...
And enough with the 40 knot gusts.

Saturday, May 02, 2009

Put Away Yer Longboards

S WIND 15 TO 25 KT. LOCAL GALE FORCE GUSTS TO 35 KT POSSIBLE THIS AFTERNOON. COMBINED SEAS 9 TO 11 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 9 SECONDS.

Hell, put away your surfboards maybe...
Although, you never know...
There might be some waves to be found...
But, looks a little windy the next few days...
45 knot winds forecast for Monday...
And a little big 16 to 18 foot combined seas...
Perfect Oregon conditions in other words...
Might have to look for some protection...
Or maybe something completely different.