N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 3 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
I'm sorry...
After a week of weak swell...
Waist to knee high surf mostly...
Still longboarders strapping 'em on...
a) it encourages kookiness, falling & flailing...
b) it negatively affects wave selection...
c) if it's small & you fall, you should swim...
d) all of the above & more...
Also, extreme yoga-like stretching, c'mon...
Anyway, it was perfect leashless surf...
Leave that thing on the beach...
Learn how to hang on to your board...
And don't take off on unmakeable waves...
Yelling "GOT IT!" when you don't...
And relying on your leash to save you a swim...
That's just like my opinion, man.
