~watercolor by Jeff Hull
SE WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT16 SECONDS.
My last go out was a bit underwhelming...
But, I'll take surfable longboard waves in October...
17 foot swell forecast for tomorrow...
Think I'll do some training/drinking...
In preparation for next week...
12 foot by Monday just seems...
More rational...
If just as potentially unsurfable.
SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. SW SWELL 13 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Rabbit and Shaun...
I was never a fan per se...
I appreciate the skills...
But the "assault" and fanfare...
Seemed overblown...
I don't contest the impact...
Of their arrival on the scene...
But the trumpeting aspect...
Always bugged me...
Maybe I'm just a homer.
SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT...BUILDING TO 7 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
After a weekend of sunshine and small surf...
Looks like fall may be here for real...
I am hearing tales...
Of black, spitting, unridden barrels.
E TO SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WINDWAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I got hassled on Sunday...
It was a 3 foot swell...
Waist high maybe...
Short rights & lefts...
The rights were better...
I chose the 10' 6"...
Because the 9' 8" was too short...
Not really but anyway...
I was sitting away from the small crowd...
And an outside peak showed...
I wanted the right...
Because the lefts were soft...
I took the right...
Despite the jockey effort...
Of a kid on a shortboard...
He was trying...
I'll give him that...
But I was on the wave...
And I went right...
Kicking out 30 yards inside...
He shook his fist at me...
Paddled back out...
"Problem?" I asked...
"You had the left!" he said...
"Didn't want the left" I replied...
He glared his best intimidating glare...
He tried to get into a few more...
But his 6 footish thruster...
Was having none of it...
I felt kind of bad...
Because instead of enjoying...
The sun and the small surf...
He was pissed and more pissed...
I was old enough to be his Dad...
And while I am unlikely to engage...
In jousting, verbal or physical...
I later told him he should be careful...
About fist shaking at strangers...
Some people like to punch sheep.
TODAY - NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING N 5 TO 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
SATURDAY - E WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 2 FT AT 6 SECONDS.
SUNDAY - E WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT.W SWELL 2 FT.
A 2 foot swell in October?
Wind waves bigger than the swell?
This global warming is out of hand...
Although, 3 day beach weekend...
With wife & kids in tow...
I have to say east winds, tiny waves & sunshine...
Will sit well with them...
Anyway 10' 6" & a 9' 8" in the rig...
Hopefully get a little of the 5' surf...
Before it fades into ripples...
Fishing pole packed too...
Looks like it may get some use.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Somewhere along the way...
Surf In Oregon crossed the 100,000 visitor mark...
That's a notable number...
Good thing or bad thing?
Does it even matter?
Last time I surfed...
There were 5 other surfers out...
I knew 2 of them...
2 of them were a 100 yards away...
And the other couldn't really surf...
Now that's October...
And maybe not the best barometer...
However, I still rarely have to deal with crowds...
And on the rare occassion I do...
It's usually small and weak and summer...
Add a sizable groundswell and the pack tends to thin out...
Lack of substantial population centers...
Lack of convenient, safe surfable spot...
Cold, fickle, and sharky conditions...
All point to a rosy uncrowded future for...
Surf In Oregon.
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I don't have a problem with SUP'ers per se...
I have the same problem with them...
That I have with anyone that drops in...
Just because your paddling a ginourmous board...
Doesn't mean you can just go...
Especially f someone's in a better position...
To catch the wave, and takes off on the peak...
And likewise, if the SUP'er...
Has the peak...
I'll give them the wave...
That said, I had no problem taking off on SooLoo...
He was wearing a leash.
N WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Wave by Robert Longo...
Felt like an 8 foot swell...
Plenty of push...
Kinda shifty...
And closing out...
But a couple corners to be found...
Monday looks better...
NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT...
VEERING TO E IN THE AFTERNOON...
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT...
NW SWELL 6 FT...
Not that I would be there...
