Showing posts with label kooks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kooks. Show all posts

Thursday, July 03, 2008

Landsurfing

S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...RISING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Why bother with all the risk associated with going into the water?
Just stay on shore...
Use your imagination...
Tuberides...
Cross stepping...
Hanging Ten...
It's all so much easier...
And safer too...
Remember your helmet.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Beginner Again


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING S 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
I can only wish I had a Makaha backwash...
As an excuse for my own surfing ineptitude...
Got a rare four day long streak going...
Mixing up surfs on the Frye & the new Mabile 6' 8"...
A friend asked me how the twinzer was surfing...
I answered "Somewhere between Crappily & Shitttly"...
Not the board's fault...
Strictly user limitations I fear...
Definitely found a few fun sections...
But also spent alot of time stepping off the tail...
Or popping wheelies...
Which, on a surfboard...
Generally realizes poor results...
I still know I can surf...
It's just that recent experience...
Indicates otherwise.

Saturday, June 07, 2008

Half Way Promising


NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT. W SWELL 8 TO 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 7 TO 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
I know there are waves out there...
I can read buoy forecasts...
I can check coast cams...
I can call friends for reports...
I can sleep in my car so...
I can do a early morn calm DPs...
It's just that the universe is against me.