Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO SW AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

When I had Skip Frye shape me an Eagle...

I told him to make it bulletproof...

I didn't care about the extra weight...

So, he used a 1/2 inch stringer...

And heavy glass all around...

But after about a year...

The Eagle's starting to age...

A fin box that needed repair...

Rail shatters due to smacking the rider...

Now a ding in the nose that will need to be dried & fixed...

Worse than that several stress cracks...

Across the belly of the board...

Likely due to riding it in overhead surf the last 2 days...

I'm kinda bummed...

But that's the price you pay...

And if I had landed that floater...

On a 10'6" board...

On a 10'6" face...

That'd have been sweet...

Instead...

Just damage.

NE WIND 10 KT...BACKING TO NW. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

"The biggest buzz I ever had in surfing was the early '90s when I went back to the big ones," he recalls. "I mean the 11-footers. The same thing happened to Duke [Kahanamoku] when Tom Blake reintroduced him to the 16-foot olos back in the '30s. I was riding through one break, through the channel and into the next break." ~from Surfline

N WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

Smooth styling on likely pre-urethane wheels...

Never saw him fall...

From my vantage point...

Laying on the blacktop...

Bleeding.