Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NE WIND 20 TO 25 KT...EXCEPT E 25 KT NEAR SHORE. WIND WAVES 6 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 14 SECONDS.CHANGING TO NE WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Local Report:

Cold. Cold and windy this morning on the North Coast. Tide was low when I got in and the outside sandbar was working on the smaller sets, but you had to sit inside to catch the smaller waves and then the larger sets would march through. Larger set drops were 3-4 foot overhead and most closed out but every once in a while, a little nugget would pop up. I got a couple of those. It was really cold taking the wetsuit off.

Windy (NE) but good where I went. I spent 3.5 hrs in the water and was completely numb when I got out. Lots of really fun rides today... mostly waist to head high. I even dusted off my longboard. My face is all red, either I got a sun burn or maybe it's frostbite.

Nice afternoon sesh. All by myself - waist to shoulder high. A lot of close outs but every so often one would peel just right. Not much waiting around either - got lots of rides in about an hour and a half. Hooked up with just about every wave I tried for (very unusual for me). Hope for a repeat tomorrow.

A repeat of last trip just a little more offshore wind, a little more period in the swell, and a little more slightly OH perfection I'm putting in my request for the next session now.

4' @ 14, light E wind, 8'. The swell was fat and was throwing overhead barrels on the sets. I took off on one huge set wave, made the bottom turn and looked up at the bottom of a lip 50 yards long. I found a doggy door, straightened out into the foam and ditched my board. Later in the session, I took off on a set right, made the bottom turn and tucked into a stand up barrel. The sound went hollow, the door was open, and I thought I was going to squirt out, but the wave pitched a section of lip that landed right on the nose of board, knocked me down, sucked me up the face, and slammed me into the pit. But it didn’t matter; I had gotten barreled, even though I didn’t make it out. Then, right before I quit, I found the Holy Grail. I took off just to the left of the peak, turned right, and shot into an open tunnel. I squirted out of my first legitimate 100% shack!