Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NE WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 13 SECONDS. CHANGING TO N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
A 4' swell in winter? Dust off the longboards...although I'm sure a few will try to wiggle and waggle those shortboards into these relative ripples. Then again, the period may allow a enough of a push to riiiiiip!

Local Report:

Smaller surf with head high 2-3 wave sets every other set or so. COLD air in the morning!

Surfed some brilliant, small waves on the south coast yesterday. Sought warmer air and less wind and scored perfectly in the protection of Cape Blanco. Two sessions on perfect little a-frames with three other surfers in the water and lots of good vibes. There was some hooting going on -- cheering each other into waves and down the line. This state of ours can be magic.

Fun waist to shoulder high sets in the early am, but started getting mushy after 12. Too bad that last suck out in the rip tide was still lingering in my head, taking up valuable surfing space...

...my first wave. Mis-timed my drop on got my ass handed to me. Knocked around. Sucked back over, and dumped onto the sand bar. Came up coughing up water and confused. It was only a chest high wave? Made my way out of the impact zone and North for an easier paddle out. Got a few more waves, but the lung full of water forced me in.

Yeah, the head high waves were packing some juice today. I was out at low tide up North and got my ass handed to me a couple of times and my board shows it (i.e. rail to rail stress fractures). Easterlies this AM and surfing with my son and some good friends...it does not get any better...

...Smugglers today...a few shoulder high rides. Cold and at one point conservatively counted 50 people in the water and guessed there were about 100 on the beach.

3.5' @ 14, light E wind, cold, 8'. ...I kept tucking into the pit and getting slammed. After about five beatings, I managed to spit out of another barrel.