Monday, February 20, 2006

Wave Train


NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS. CHANGING TO NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

It's been a long while since I've surfed this spot. I've caught it good a few times, but have been tempted out on many more occassions only to find it not nearly as good as it looked from the cobbles. The best I ever got it was a winter morning, probably 10 years ago now, it was chest high, lined up and just peeling. I had a 9' 6" Hynson single fin that you could just swing it around, line it up and go...

Local Report:

...went to check a spot I had looked at often but never seen anyone surf. It was working like a charm...we bush wacked our way to the beach and enjoyed waist to chest high peelers for a few hours. As the tide filled in the wind picked up and turned everything to mush. Tons of fun little rides in the sun with nobody around.

5' @ 14, Light E wind. The conditions were clean and bigger than the previous days. I surfed on the 7'4" and found a few nice overhead rights early, and a screaming left.

Agate was handing out ice cream headaches in the am. Got to see somebody catch a couple big ones way outside. Shoulda paddled out there, but I kept playing chicken just outside the shore pound.

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