Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

SE WIND 5 KT...BACKING TO N. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
NW SWELL 15 FT AT 13 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 13 FT AT 12 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

The drop sets it all up. If you aren't quick to your feet, the wave makes the decision for you. It has to be an instinctive, almost automatic action. If you have to think about it, or if you can't get your feet under you in one smooth movement...the wave has already gone by.

Local Report:

Sunny, nice little waves, plenty to go around

...went out for about 90 minutes at high tide. ...caught two waves and endured some heavy beatings. ...last wave was a huge right with a clean face that I rode almost to the beach before it closed out. ...It was a fun session, but a little sketchy and a lot of work.

Close interval, lumpy, heavin' and heavy on Saturday afternoon. The current was sweepin' through the take off zone like a recently undammed river. The quarter mile paddle out took at least 15 duck dives to get through. Twice I set up next to the rock and 10 sec later I was fifty feet past it. Only one other face in the line-up, we both pulled into a few long ones and called it a sesion.