N WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FEET.
NW SWELL 9 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
TONIGHT SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO S AFTER MIDNIGHT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
This was the shot, and the surfer, that did it for me when I was coming up. I had this shot on my wall (along with alot of others), and Lopez' casual style was the epitome of what surfing was about for me, then. I learned about all of the other style masters when I was older...Phil Edwards, Billy Hamilton, Skip Frye (especially)...but Gerry Lopez had every quality I wanted to emulate...smooth, minimal, pure and unflappable.
Local Report:
...some nice peaks early, but it steadily mushed as the swell dropped and the tide flooded.~holddown
Lumpy and retarded at ***** **** today~Massy
1 comments:
I hear ya'. Those stand up tubes, so stylish, with the slightly slumped shoulders and barely bent knees and a look on his face as if he was just taking a stroll on a Sunday afternoon. Smooth under pressure for sure.
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