the firs wave back
-
sitting under a thicket of firs
i drink a small amount of beer.
enough to relax and quiet the chatter.
we talk about self-driving cars and pla...
2 days ago
W WIND 15 KT...BECOMING NW 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS 25 KT THIS AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 13 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS 25 KT IN THE EVENING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 9 FT N TO 11 FT S.
PERIOD OF 11 SECONDS.
You may have seen Barry Britton's work in a recent issue of The Surfer's Journal. The description from this 1999 poster reads:
"This is the Pilot who surfs at Easkey. He does play the accordion while waiting for the right conditions. And he turned 50 this year."
1 comments:
Great lyric above. My favorite part is "May God grant you all the waves that you NEED." He could have said "want" but it is definitely a need, like food, water, shelter, waves...
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