Thursday, March 16, 2006

Rivermouth


SE WIND 25 TO 30 KT...VEERING TO S. GUSTS UP TO 40 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 14 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS.
TONIGHT
S WIND 25 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT.
COMBINED SEAS 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 9 SECONDS.

Another typical Oregon rivermouth break...way bigger than it looks! Misinformation, misdirection and outright fabrication...there are no waves in Oregon.

Local Report:

4:30...surfing some nice rights with a little punch. A huge squall rolled through and made things interesting...shielded from the onslaught...manage(d) to get blown off my board several times just sitting there. The outside stuff and a low angle face, but in the middle section it steepened up quite a bit and made for good speed, although the rocky non-beach made you think twice about pushing it.

...the sky had gone black, and the water seemed to be glowing an eerie, beautiful green. Out of nowhere, a huge flock of seagulls started swooping around, and there was suddenly a calm...and the strong upwelling fishy sea scent in the air...thought..."it might be time to paddle in"...transfixed for a moment about how glassy it had gotten, trying to discern where the water stopped and the sky started. Peering into the haze, something white caught my attention, the cresting lip of a wave!! "Oh shiiii", then...bulldozed by a big ol' f'ing wave. Blew off (the)board...tumbled down the face, and...the old "am I swimming up?...stay calm." ...felt that forward and back swooshing motion of another wave going over, and then made the surface...gathered (the) board, and started paddling in...got to the beach...looked out, and could barely make out the silhouetted form of XXX carving up and down on yet another wave...assume he came in before the tide change.
~stiffler

3 comments:

Patch said...

That looks unbelievable man, look at the glass!

Slim said...

Almost looks like a bore tide wave. cool.

Chum said...

My tongue is bleeding from trying not to ask you where that is...