the firs wave back
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sitting under a thicket of firs
i drink a small amount of beer.
enough to relax and quiet the chatter.
we talk about self-driving cars and pla...
3 days ago
S WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT... BUILDING TO 6 FT.
W SWELL 12 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
TONIGHT
S WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT.
W SWELL 12 FT AT 12 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.
Nothing funner than making your way out, out, out into the lineup...duck diving and dodging...near misses and scraping over the tops of big surf...only to find yourself face to face with a top to bottom clean up wave that's going to eliminate all your efforts and hard work. It's a ditch situation for even the most experienced...you dive for the bottom and pray your leash is up to the task.
3 comments:
I hear that! Luckily, I was the guy scratching over the top (my friends said it looked like I was climbing a ladder) and not the one caught inside on Sunday. G bailed, his leash held, but the leash plug didn't. Have a nice swim!
ack!
been there.
scary.
That's why I like the old style glass leash loops.
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