Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Oscillating Waves


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
SW SWELL 5 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Caught some fun ones yesterday...the set waves were maybe a bit bigger than the pic above. Paddled out at extreme low tide...little waves were breaking cleanly, close in only a foot or two of water. Paddled down to a peak that seemed to be breaking a bit further out and picked off a few knee to thigh high warblers. A inshore trench was causing a backwash that made for some curious bumpiness on top of a crossed up south swell. Lots of small double ups and inshore eruptions that resulted in close outs and kiddie pool-depth wipe outs...bounced off the bottom on couple occassions.

The south that was showing usually arrived every 15 minutes or so...showing itself on an outer bar. Paddling hard to get outside for a possible chest-high lined up wave paid off more often than not. The paddle out was easy, since you could wade to the line-up.

The Oregon wind was curiously absent, resulting in rare afternoon glass. As the tide filled in, the waves disappeared. But a couple hours, leashless and solo, in fun little waves was well worth getting wet.

A little side note...the beach was covered with Carpenter Ants, hundreds of the little (big for ants!) buggers. It was hot and they were trying to escape the sun, hiding under anything on the sand. You could almost hear the beach houses getting chewed on.

1 comments:

Patch said...

score!