Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

SW WIND 15 KT...BECOMING W 5 TO 10 KT IN THE MORNING...NW 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT.
SW SWELL 3 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
SW SWELL 6 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

3 foot swell...packing up the 9' 6" and looking for an empty peak...

I'll let you know...

Local Report:

...magic five hours just past high tide Tuesday afternoon and evening at the Coast's premiere surf break. No booties, right after right after right dropping you off in the south rip for a free ride back to the lineup. Surfed a borrowed log without a leash, caught so many I quit counting. Shoulder and couple of head highs, wedgy peak that made for a fast drop with lots of speed off the bottom turn to set up for trickiness on the wall. Magical, Magical, Magical. Surfed with good shaper friend and indirectly met TT as she discussed her log on the way from said shaper.

Got intentionally dropped in on by a shortboarder emanating his Kelly Slater-esque wannabee look, but swung the log around, walked up mid board, made a fast line, and cut him off. Slightly more aggressive behavior than I'm accustomed too, but intentional drop-ins piss me off. So, I made him know it. Was good too, as he left the peak right after. All and all a perfect day. Warm, sunny, and waves in spades.

...beautiful afternoon...mostly surfed a left south of xxx...we called it quits when things took a really wierd turn. A big set of lined up closeouts turned the whole thing into a frothy foam bath. Paddling over one, I got smacked in the neck with the lip, which felt like it ripped my head off...I thought maybe it was a reaction to some seismic activity, it was so out of the blue. Up until then, though, it was ideal.

...small punchy peak...Punchy and shallow made for some fun drops with good shoulders...more fun than I expected...the wind was on it but it was still fun, the mystery south was hitting it every 10 mins or so. But the west component was better...