Thursday, June 29, 2006

Flume


WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 7 FT AT 8 SECONDS NORTH AND 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS SOUTH.
TONIGHT N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Surfed this cove...
Solo...
Lotsa rocks...
Angry bellowing sea lions...
Shadows and movement below...
Can't really see your feet...
Swirling currents...
Head high set waves...
Tough to stay in position...
Caught inside, duck dive central...
Brutal hangover...
Concern for survival...
All equalled short session...

Read this recent report afterwards...makes you wonder...

...North Coast was firing prior to the on-shores beating it down. Nice wedges neck to head high. Short lived session due to being knocked off my board by something. Something big enough to knock me off my board. Not sure what it was. I didn't see it and the water had been super murky. I was out all alone too so couldn't ask anybody else. Only minor scrapes on my board. Freaked me out though.
~rich

0 comments: