Friday, June 30, 2006

Peck


"Peck at Pipeline" clip from Goomer.com
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
TONIGHT NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

John Peck could be described as many things...eccentric, spiritual, cosmic...but without a doubt, he is a guru in the surfing-spirituality connection. Through the years he has developed unique beliefs, some far out...some remarkably insightful. The universe, he observes, is full of waves – waves of electro-magnetic energy that travel through space perpetually, often transforming, but never being destroyed... shaping and creating everything in existence. These energy waves reveal themselves in myriad forms – sound waves, sub-atomic waves, solar waves and, thankfully for us...floating upon the sea's liquid surface...ocean waves. The waves are different and the same, dual in nature, yet unified – the energy of the universe courses through multi-dimensional time and space, presenting to our consciousness as different manifestations along the path.

As surfers we’re clearly much more than lucky, earthly travellers, but are people that have discovered a dynamic method of personally and individually tapping into one of these wave forms that exist in this universe. What other beings can glide upon repeating pulses of energy and ride them, however temporarily or intermittently, as long and as often as they can?

No one that comes to mind. Perhaps that is why people, not just surfers, everywhere find the sea, and the act of surfing, compelling to watch, and why we return over and over again...sometimes on a daily basis...sometimes after a separation much longer...to seek that energy source and feel beneath our bodies and within our very being that power and the stoke.

Adapted, excerpted, excised, stolen and altered from the Surfer's Path, Issue 41...

2 comments:

frontline-hepatitis-awareness said...

Hi I went to Coronado High and met John there where he taught me how to stand up on a board. Nice to find this site as it brings back memories of some of the better times in my life...........

tara b

Christian Jensen said...

I contacted John Peck with some questions about sobriety. I was a stranger to him but he immediately took the time to share some of his wisdom with me from a truely caring perspective..John is a Surfing Legend and truely a great Human Being..Maximum Respect.

Christian Jensen