Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
TONIGHT N WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 3 FT.
NW SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

Surfed the only protected spot on the north coast yesterday...
Waves got pretty fun about 3pm...
Some head high ones coming through...
Decent crowd...not too bad...40 or so tops...
Spread out throughout the cove...
Middles was the best...
Some able surfers were on it...
Got a couple no exit barrels...
Pretty shortlived with a spin cycle ending...
Got one little in and out left barrel...

Chatted with a guy on the beach about his new board...
A 5' 6" Colyer quad...
It was a sweet board...
But my days of surfing anything near a 5'6"...
Not only went, they never came...
Shortest board I ever rode was a 5'11" transition single fin...
And it was far too short even in 1972...

Wind wasn't too bad...
It was holding the lefts up nicely...
A few rights coming through too...
But not as juicy...

Damn! I have had a nice run this week...
Surfed 4 out of the last 5 days...
May not seem like much to you lucky bastards living the dream...
But for us 9-5 inland family guys...
It is highly unusual...

And the wife wants to go to the beach on Sunday too...
Who am I to argue?