Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Yesterday & Today


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
MIXED SWELL NW 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS AND SW 3 FT AT 15 SECONDS.

Today

It was a bit windier than the forecast...
And the swell was definitely crossed up..

In the water about 11am, still calm but getting bumpy...
Sideshore south current made for chronic paddle...

Some little a-frames came through, rights and lefts...
Little bit sluggish, but a few fun ones lined up...

Paddled all the way to the cape to escape the drag...
Waves much smaller and closed out as the tide changed...

Headed back south as the tide filled in...
Got a couple mini-mackers, spin, rinse, refill...

Actually caught my wave of the day, a ledging right...
That realigned my spinal column, feeling much better...

Back on the sand, enjoying the sun, and a couple beers...
All in all, coulda been better...or much, much worse.

Yesterday

Had a cancellation of an afternoon meeting...
Beach? Why not? In the water by 2pm...
I had a feeling it would be good...

I got more waves in the first hour I was out...
Than I have in the last 3 times I surfed...
The water warmed up too...

Lotsa waist to chest high lefts and rights...
With some sets that packed a bit more punch...
There were lined up and reeling sections...

Only got in about 2 1/2 hours...
But had the entire middle all to my self...
Only had to call off a softtopper one time...

Scraped into a few late drops...
Best wave was a walled up right...
That allowed several backside off the lips...

Sunny day, stiff offshore, cold ones waiting...
Chatted with a guy for a bit about some secret spots...
Home by seven and dinner was on the table...

My face hurts from smiling too much...

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