W WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 TO 3 FT.
W SWELL 4 TO 5 FT AT 9 TO 10 SECONDS.
…some surf for the pure fun of it…
…joy, bliss, or a cleansing of the soul…
…Buzzy, born to old California money…
…learned on a 127 pound redwood plank…
…dragging it in a wagon behind his bike…
…pedaling and paddling to Malibu…
…in 1950, he saw movies of Hawaiian surf…
…and crewed on a cat to see for himself…
…living the quonset hut lifestyle at Makaha…
…diving, reading, and riding the biggest waves…
…that being occasional 20-foot point surf…
…the farthest out on the gnarliest days…
…a Makaha lip once snapped his leg like a toothpick…
…the pioneer of the underwater boulder workout…
…the Waimea curse was lifted in 1957…
…his was a heavy reputation as the heaviest heavy...
…unimpressed with the shortboard movement…
…called bullshit on hotdoggers and pros…
…asked why he quit surfing in 1973 he said…
...”I went for this wave and backed off”…
…still enjoys diving, but doesn't discuss surfing…
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