Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...TURNING TO N WIND 5 TO 10 IN THE EVENING.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

I woke up yesterday with a lot on the plate...work, kids, wife and all the rest...not unlike many other days perhaps, but lots of pressures coming together at the same time for some reason.

It had been a while since I'd gone surfing...over a week...not a long time geologically, but an age surf logically...I pulled up to the break early to see a dozen plus out on the main peak...with a handful of other surfers scattered down the beach...it looked good...low tide, glassy, peaking and waist to chest high.

I paddled out and surfed a peak with 2 others...the first wave a right bomb...well, as much a bomb as a head high wave can be a bomb...made the drop, and careened down the line, kicking out in knee deep water...paddled out for more...surfed for 2 over hours before admitting to myself that I still had things to tend to...but I felt better and had washed away some of the stress.

Went to work to find that some of the problems from the previous week had been resolved without my assistance...made some phone calls to address other things...couldn't resolve it all, but got things rolling in the right direction.

I had to be back in town by seven...so at 2 I decided to check the waves again...surely the wind would be on it so what's the harm, right?...sadly, the wind was not on it...it was still waist to chest high and looking fun...so, I paddled back out to make sure.

The morning's waves had been throwing a bit more and the overcast calm made for oily glass...the afternoon's waves were a bit mushier, but the sun was out and it was still smooth...the inside sections were lined up and hollowing out...but also breaking nearly on the sand berm...risky to body and board.

Surfed for a couple hours and hit the road...made more calls to tend to business...and you know what?...it all came together...my boss was happy...my wife was happy...the kids were happy.

I think it was because I went surfing...don't tell me any different.